You’ve been told time and time again that getting regular oil changes is an essential part of your routine car maintenance. But those oil changes can get expensive after a while, especially if you’re a driver who puts a lot of miles on their car in a given year. When you’re at the auto shop, you may notice the budget oil sitting on the shelf and wonder: is it really so bad to put cheap oil in your car?

What can cheap oil do to your car?

The fact of the matter is that like a lot of other things in life, you get what you pay for when it comes to oil. Cheap oil is, unfortunately, low quality. Even though the initial cost is low, the long-term cost can be significant. That’s because cheap oils break down faster than their more expensive cousins, potentially doing a lot of damage to your engine.

Cheap oil can…

• Gum up and ‘fail’, increasing the friction and heat inside your engine instead of decreasing the friction.
• Inadequately lubricate the parts inside your engine, leading to excess wear and tear on your engine.
• Fail and contribute to ‘sludge’, a thick, dark substance that can damage or destroy your engine if left long enough.
• Gum up around compression or oil rings, causing oil to enter the combustion chamber and burn there.
• Increase your engine’s fuel consumption since the parts are working harder than they should.
• Reduce your engine’s normal power levels.
• Cause blockages in your engine, leading to issues with your car’s exhaust system.

Quality oil, on the other hand, is designed for long-term operation. This means less wear and tear on the engine parts, better fuel economy, and no impact on your engine’s power level. This type of oil often contains additives to help your engine operate smoothly, such as detergents that help keep the interior of your engine clean. These additives can increase the lifespan of your oil, meaning you’ll have to stop in for oil changes less frequently.

You’ll quickly notice that there are a lot of types of quality oil available, but which should you buy?

Which engine oil should you use?

First of all, you need to check your owner’s manual to find the recommended type of oil for your vehicle. The technicians who designed your vehicle have already gone through extensive testing to figure out which type of oil will help your engine last as long as possible without losing efficiency. (Note: Sometimes, your recommended oil type is listed on or near your oil cap.)

With this number in hand, the shelf at the auto store becomes slightly less daunting. Now, all you need to figure out is which type to use – conventional, synthetic, or a blend. What’s the difference?

• Conventional: Conventional oil is typically less expensive than synthetic or synthetic blend, but it’s important to know a few things about this option. First, it can contain impurities that lead to deposit buildups. It may also be less effective at reducing the friction between engine parts, increasing the wear and tear on vehicle components. Conventional oil also doesn’t have as wide a range of temperatures in which it can perform optimally, so extreme heat and extreme cold can affect its efficiency.
• Synthetic: Synthetic oils are often designed for specific uses, such as high-mileage, high-performance, or even high-use vehicles such as work or tow trucks. This type of oil is highly refined and contains few impurities, creates few deposits, and has minimal friction. Synthetic oils also work well in many types of temperatures.
• Synthetic blend: Just like the name suggests, synthetic blends both conventional and synthetic oil for a good intersection between cost and performance, and is a good option for everyday driving.

Oil Changes And More At T3 Atlanta

If you need to have your oil changed, get routine maintenance, or have more significant repairs due to an accident, T3 Atlanta can help. Our friendly, knowledgeable staff has over 25 years of experience repairing Nissan, Lexus, Infiniti, and Toyota vehicles in Atlanta. We’ll help your car stay in great condition so you can sit back and enjoy your ride.

Your car relies on many types of fluids to help it operate normally, and inside your vehicle is where they belong. Sometimes, however, you may notice a colorful puddle on your garage floor. Although that isn’t a good sign, the fluid color can give you a good idea of what the problem might be. That’s because many of the fluids in your car are color-coded. What do they mean?

The fluid is colorless

If your fluid is colorless and has no smell, you’re most likely seeing condensation draining for your air conditioner. This is a completely normal process and isn’t cause for concern.

The fluid is blue

Blue fluid generally belongs to windshield washer fluid. This type of fluid typically smells like window cleaner and is watery in texture.

Although it’s a problem that isn’t going to affect your engine, it can make visibility a challenge if you need to clean your windshield on the road and your reservoir is empty.

The fluid is orange

An orange fluid leak can belong to either your coolant or your automatic transmission. Both types of leaks need to be addressed quickly, as they can lead to you getting stranded on the side of the road.

• Coolant: Orange coolant can occur when rust gets into your coolant system. Coolant has a very distinctive sweet smell and should be kept away from kids or pets, as it’s poisonous.
• Automatic transmission fluid: Although this fluid is typically red or reddish-brown, it can also turn a shade of orange.

Your fluid is pink, green, or yellow

Pink, green and yellow fluids are all potential coolant colors, depending on the brand currently in your vehicle. Coolant has a distinctive, sweet smell.

Green fluid can also belong to some brands of windshield washer fluid. This type of leak will smell like window cleaner, not sweet like coolant.

The fluid is red

Red or reddish-brown fluid can belong to either your automatic transmission or your power steering system. There are a couple of ways to detect the differences between them.

• Power steering fluid: Oily-feeling and thin in consistency, occasionally accompanied by a ‘burnt marshmallow’ smell.
• Automatic transmission fluid: Oily-feeling and thick, and often accompanied by a petroleum or gasoline-like smell.

The fluid is brown or black

You likely have an engine oil leak if the color of the fluid on your garage floor is brown or black. Engine oil is slippery to the touch and smells – you guessed it – like oil. An oil leak isn’t always an urgent problem, but it isn’t going to repair itself, so you’ll need to get an inspection eventually.

The fluid is yellow

Yellow fluid belongs to your brake system and is a very serious type of leak, as your brakes will no longer work if your hydraulic system has no fluid to operate. This fluid is slippery and oily, and may be accompanied by a fishy smell.

The fluid is shiny

Is your garage filled with a strong gasoline smell in addition to a puddle on the floor? If so, you probably have a gasoline leak. This problem can be very serious, so we recommend calling your mechanic as soon as possible.

How serious is the problem?

Although some leaking fluids are no cause for concern, your vehicle’s fluids belong inside your engine. As such, you’ll want to visit your mechanic as soon as possible in order to prevent yourself from getting stranded on the side of the road. But how serious is your issue?

In general…

• If you smell gasoline, do not drive your vehicle – it’s unsafe to drive a car that is leaking gasoline. You’ll need to have your car towed to a mechanic in order to diagnose the problem.
• If you find a yellow puddle of brake fluid on your car, it’s unsafe to drive your car. You’ll need to get your car towed to your mechanic for immediate service.
• If there is a puddle that is more than 3 inches wide, your car has a serious leak and needs to be serviced immediately.
• If your puddle is less than 3 inches wide, your car will eventually need to be serviced, but likely isn’t too serious unless it’s brake fluid or gasoline.

How to check if your car has a fluid leak

If you want to be certain where your fluid leak is coming from, all you need to test this is a piece of cardboard and some time.

1. Place your cardboard under where you think the leak is coming from.
2. Wait overnight.
3. Check your cardboard and take note of where the leak is from, the color, how much fluid has leaked overnight, and any odors you may notice.

This information will be very helpful for your mechanic when you take your car in to get serviced.

Repair Your Car Fluid Leak At T3 Atlanta

Whether you’re certain you have a coolant leak or you have no idea what that puddle on your garage floor might be, T3 Atlanta can help. We service Nissan, Lexus, Infiniti, and Toyota vehicles at our Smyrna and Decatur repair shops. Our friendly and knowledgeable staff will be able to diagnose the problem quickly and help you get back on the road. Give us a call today!

Last time, we talked about the top reasons your car is rattling. But, truth be told, there are a lot of potential causes of this pesky problem! Without further ado, here are more reasons your car is rattling.

More Reasons Your Car is Rattling

1. Your timing belt or chain is loose/worn

Your timing belt is an essential part of your engine, making sure that your pistons, valves, and crankshaft all move in the correct sequence. It’s designed to work at a specific tension.

However, this belt or chain can become loose with age and use. When this happens, the reduced tension in the belt means that the chain can hit surrounding parts as it moves. These impacts are behind the rattle you’re hearing. Your timing belt or chain is likely the culprit of the sound if you notice the rattling noise increasing with acceleration and decreasing with deceleration.

2. Your drive belt is worn or broken

Much like the timing belt described above, a loose or broken drive belt will smack other engine components as it rotates, causing a rattle as it goes round and round. Sometimes, misaligned belt pulleys can also cause a rattle.

3. Bad or loose water pump pulleys

Your water pump is powered by pulleys that help make sure this crucial component operates normally. If the bearings on pulleys become loose or worn, they can cause a rattling noise during engine operation.

4. Your exhaust system is loose

If your mystery sound is coming from the bottom of your vehicle, it’s possible that your exhaust system is loose. This can happen due to age, corrosion, or road damage to the undercarriage of your vehicle.

5. Your starter is defective

How can your engine starter cause a rattle? It can happen if the component known as a ‘bendix’, which connects the starter to the engine itself, goes bad. This component connects to the engine when you turn the key so that your engine can start. If the bendix goes bad, the component may not engage or disengage as normal, causing that pesky rattle.

6. Piston problems

Your pistons may be the problem if your engine is very old or very worn. In these cases, the age of the engine means that the pistons no longer fit snugly into their cylinders. You can identify this particular problem if you notice that the rattle starts when you initially turn on the vehicle but goes away once your engine has warmed up.

7. Bad fan clutch

If your vehicle is rear-wheel drive, your rattling noise may be the result of a bad fan clutch. These types of vehicles have an engine-mounted cooling fan to help keep your engine working at an optimal temperature. If the clutch attached to this fan goes bad, you may hear a rattling noise. This particular issue often happens alongside high engine temperatures and/or overheating.

More Causes Of Car Rattling – Inside Your Cabin

As if you needed even more causes of car rattling, we haven’t even talked about noises from inside your cabin!

If the source of the rattling is coming from somewhere inside your cabin, identifying the source of the rattle may be a little trickier. Here are a few places to check if the noise is coming from inside your vehicle.

• Glove compartment
• Door pocket
• Center console
• Cup holders
• Trunk
• Folding seats
• Luggage compartment covers
• Under your seat

Car Rattle Repairs And More At T3 Atlanta

Whether you have a mysterious car rattle or you simply need routine maintenance, T3 Atlanta can help. With our extensive experience repairing Nissan, Infiniti, Toyota, and Lexus vehicles, we can quickly assess your vehicle and get your vehicle back into top shape. Give us a call at one of our two convenient Metro Atlanta locations!

When you turn on your car, you expect to hear the thrum of your engine waking up. But wait – what’s that rattle? And where is it coming from? A rattling noise can sound frightening, but it doesn’t always mean something catastrophic is about to happen. Here are the top reasons your car is rattling.

The Top Reasons Your Car is Rattling

1. Problems with the catalytic converter

If your rattling noise is coming from the back of your vehicle, it’s possible that there is a problem with the catalytic converter. This component is attached to your tailpipe and is responsible for helping keep your car operate normally.

Sometimes, whether due to age or a particularly hard knock on the road, your catalytic converter can get damaged. In these cases, the ‘catalyst’ inside the converter, which looks like a honeycomb structure, gets knocked loose. The end result? A rattle.

In addition to causing a pesky rattling noise, problems with your catalytic converter can impact your fuel consumption, decrease your fuel efficiency, increase emissions released by your car, and can even cause your car to fail its annual emissions test. It’s important to have this problem looked at by a mechanic as soon as possible.

2. Give me a brake… rattle

If you hear your car rattling when you apply the brakes, it’s possible that your brakes are worn down. The contact of metal on metal can cause that unwanted noise.

If you’re hearing sounds from your brakes when your car is stationary, it’s possible that you have broken and/or missing brake pad anti-rattle clips. These clips, as you might guess, prevent your brake pads from rattling when not in use.

Cheap brake pads are another possible culprit. Cheap pads are not only less predictable when it comes to how much pressure you need to apply to stop your car, they wear out faster and can cause that rattle.

3. Suspend your disbelief – about your suspension

Your suspension is an intricate, interwoven system that keeps you comfortable whether you’re driving in the city or on a dirt road. If you notice that your rattling is coming from your wheel wells, part of your suspension system may be the culprit.

This could include:

• Worn out shock absorbers
• Worn out suspension struts
• Loose sway bar link
• Loose or worn cushions (aka bushings)
• Damages to the suspension system

It can be hard to diagnose this issue on your own, but a certified mechanic can quickly get to the bottom of a rattle in your suspension system.

4. Your oil is low

Low oil is a potentially serious problem that can cause a rattle in your engine. Rattling from low oil happens because there isn’t enough lubrication between the components. If your oil gets too low, it can actually cause your engine to lock up, meaning costly damages – or worse, an unsalvageable engine.

If you’re hearing rattling, it’s easy to check your oil levels with the dipstick in your engine. Just make sure that your car is cold while you perform this test! If your oil is very low, you can always add oil (just make sure it’s the right type.

However, if the problem persists, it’s important to visit your mechanic to find out why your oil keeps running low.

5. You’re burning the wrong type of fuel

Fuel is fuel, right, and those numbers at the pump are just so the gas station can charge more? Well, not exactly. The ‘octane’ of your fuel really does matter. Some cars can burn anything, but others are specifically designed to burn high-octane fuel.

If you have a car in which high-octane fuel is recommended and you’re putting in the cheapest stuff at the gas station, stop. Your car isn’t designed to burn low-octane fuel, and your car is rattling because of a phenomenon known as ‘pinging’. This noise may be the result of carbon deposits, ignition timing problems, or overheating.

Low-octane fuel in a high-octane engine can significantly shorten the lifespan of your vehicle, so make sure you’re putting in the minimum recommended octane gas for your car.

Diagnose Your Mystery Car Rattle At T3 Atlanta

Just because your car is rattling isn’t always a bad thing, but it can certainly be frustrating! T3 Atlanta can help diagnose the source of the noise in your car and restore your car cabin to blissful silence. We can also help keep your car on its regular maintenance schedule and perform comprehensive repairs on car problems. Give us a call today at our Smyrna or Decatur location, and we’ll help keep your car in top condition!

Depending on when you learned how to drive, you may have learned that 10 and 2 was the ‘right’ way to hold your steering wheel. Today’s driver’s ed classes and recommendations from the NHTSA, however, teach that this is actually incorrect, and that 9 and 3 is right instead. What’s the truth? Let’s take a look.

The Right Way To Hold Your Steering Wheel

So, is there a right way to hold your steering wheel? The short answer is, “Yes”.

The right way to hold your steering wheel is at the 9 and 3 position.

Don’t:

• Don’t hold your steering wheel at the 10 and 2 position
• Don’t hold your steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position
• And definitely don’t use your knees to steer!

Why Is Holding The Steering Wheel At 10 and 2 Wrong?

But holding the steering wheel at 10 and 2 wasn’t always wrong. Prior to the universality of power steering, this position was optimal for leverage and maneuverability.

What changed? The reason is tucked behind the front housing of your steering wheel — your car’s airbag. As it turns out, this life saving device can have some unintentional consequences.

When deployed, your airbag inflates at 200 miles per hour in an upward direction, which is the first reason that your hands shouldn’t be near that half of the steering wheel. With hands held at 10 and 2, your airbag could also push your hands into your face, causing injuries to your hands and/or face.

That’s why the best way to hold your steering wheel is at the 9 and 3 position. This gives you excellent maneuverability and reaction time, as you’ll be able to turn the wheel in a 180 degree direction on a moment’s notice.

It’s also recommended that you don’t hook your thumb over the rim of the steering wheel. Instad, let your thumb rest on the face of the wheel. This will prevent your hands from getting caught if your airbag deploys.

When Steering Isn’t Easy: The Signs Of Low Steering Wheel Fluid

Every once in a while, you might notice that it’s taking an unusual amount of effort to turn your steering wheel. Low power steering fluid might be the culprit. This fluid is located in the hydraulic system that powers the steering in your car. How do you know if your steering wheel fluid is low? There are a few key symptoms.

• Difficulty steering: This is the biggest – and hardest to miss – symptom of low steering fluid. You might notice that you’re getting a minor workout just to turn into a parking space.
• Your steering wheel won’t move: An upgraded version of ‘difficulty steering’, your steering wheel can simply refuse to move if the power steering fluid is too low – or empty.
• Your turns suddenly have their own soundtrack: And not a pleasant one! When your steering fluid is low, you may hear screeches, groans, and squeals every time you try to turn your car.
• There are pink or red stains on your garage floor: If you notice that you start seeing red and pink liquid on your garage floor, especially in conjunction with difficulties steering, your power steering system may have a leak. It’s important to get this problem addressed by a mechanic, as pink and red fluid can also be antifreeze and/or coolant.

Power Steering Repair And More At T3 Atlanta

Whether your steering wheel fluid is low or you simply need routine maintenance, T3 Atlanta is here to help. Our fast and friendly service shops in Smyrna and Decatur are convenient to the metro area so you can get back on the road quickly.

If you’ve noticed your car idling roughly in conjunction with an illuminated ‘check engine light’, you may be concerned with the health of your vehicle. It’s true that there are many potential reasons for these symptoms, one of which is the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve in your engine. But what is a PCV valve? And how do you know if yours has gone bad?

First, What Is Your PCV Valve?

Your PCV valve is part of your emissions system. It is located in your engine valve cover and is connected to the intake manifold.

Its job is effectively to give your engine a second chance to burn gases, increasing efficiency and reducing emissions. It also helps regulate the pressure in your crankcase and helps minimize the development of sludge in your oil.

Your PCV valve also helps protect your engine if and when it backfires by closing shut and keeping the backfire from reaching the engine crankcase.

Has Your PCV Valve Gone Bad?

There are several hallmark symptoms of a bad PCV valve. Since many of these symptoms overlap with other engine troubles, you can save a lot of time and hassle by visiting your local mechanic, who can quickly evaluate your vehicle and diagnose the root of your car’s woes.

1.Your check engine light is on

A PCV valve that’s either stuck in the open or closed position can trigger your check engine light. This happens when your vehicle’s computer detects a problem with the air-fuel mixture, whether it’s too rich (your PCV valve is stuck closed and too much fuel is in the system) or too lean (your PCV valve is stuck open and there’s too much air in the system).

2. Your car is idling roughly

If your PCV valve is stuck open, too much air will enter the engine. This means that the air-fuel mixture is too ‘lean’, resulting in a rough idle. In some cases, your car may also stall.

3. There’s a buildup of sludge in your engine

Sludge may sound like something you would never find in a car, but it’s a real problem inside of your engine that can cause costly repairs. Sludge is a semi-solid substance that’s made of oxidized engine oil, dirt, and other substances that can cause many different problems with your car.

How does the PCV valve factor into this? If this component isn’t working properly, it can allow blowby (leaking combustion gases) to mix with your engine oil. This combination creates that thick and gooey substance known as sludge that can clog and damage your engine.

4. Your car is slow to accelerate

If your PCV valve is stuck in the open position, the resulting ‘lean’ air-fuel mixture can make it difficult for your car to accelerate. Sometimes, this problem can also make it difficult to start your car.

5. Your car is leaking oil

As mentioned above, your PCV valve helps regulate the pressure in the crankcase.

If it’s stuck closed or clogged, it will throw off the balance, forcing oil through gaskets, seals, the air cleaner assembly, and onto your garage floor.

6. Your fuel efficiency isn’t what it used to be

A PCV valve that is stuck in the closed position can allow too much fuel into your engine, resulting in a ‘rich’ mixture. The end result is fewer miles per gallon and more trips to the gas station.

Can It Be Fixed?

The only way to fix a broken PCV valve is to replace it. For the intrepid, you can pull out and replace the faulty part on your own unless your PCV is built into your valve cover. In these cases, the entire assembly must be replaced. T3 Atlanta can help. With over 20 years experience repairing Nissan, Lexus, Toyota, and Infiniti vehicles, we’ll get you back on the road in no time. Give us a call at one of our two convenient Metro Atlanta locations today!

It’s no secret that your car engine gets hot, with normal operating temperatures averaging around 200 degrees Fahrenheit. Although your engine is designed to perform under these conditions, an issue with a single component can make the difference between ‘hot’ and ‘too hot’. Without further ado, here are the top 5 reasons a car can overheat.

Your Water Pump Is Leaking Or Bad

Your water pump is an essential part of your engine’s internal cooling system, moving water throughout your engine to help keep components at a normal temperature. A bad water pump won’t pump water effectively, if at all, meaning your engine parts can’t cool down normally.

A leaking pump will drain water out of your cooling system over time and needs to be diagnosed by a mechanic.

Your Thermostat Isn’t Working Properly

The main function of your engine thermostat is to release additional coolant to your engine to help keep temperatures normal. This is especially useful when your engine is working hard in hot conditions.

When your thermostat isn’t working properly, such as getting stuck in the ‘closed’ position, it isn’t able to release coolant into your engine as it starts to warm. The end result? An overheating engine.

Your Radiator Isn’t Doing Its Job

Your radiator cools down engine coolant as it passes through this component. The biggest culprit here typically relates to the radiator fan. If the fan is broken or has a faulty connection to your onboard computer, it won’t effectively keep your coolant at a normal temperature.

If you aren’t comfortable diagnosing this problem yourself, a mechanic can help.

A Hose Or Belt Is Loose Or Broken

Your engine is full of hoses and belts, and your cooling system is no exception. Hoses pump fluids such as coolant throughout your engine, while belts make sure that components have the power to operate normally. As such, a leak or loose belt is another one of the reasons a car can overheat.

Your Coolant Is Low

Your coolant, as the name suggests, is designed to help keep your car running at a normal temperature. It’s typically neon green and smells sweet and should be kept away from children and pets.

Low coolant can sometimes cause your engine temperatures to rise. Fortunately, this problem is an easy one to fix. Simply go to your local auto supply store, purchase some coolant, wait for your engine to cool, then add coolant up to the level recommended in your user’s manual.

If topping your car’s coolant tank off doesn’t help, then there may be a problem within your coolant system, such as a blockage or a leak. You’ll need to visit a mechanic to get these issues repaired.

Fix All Of The Reasons A Car Can Overheat T3 Atlanta

When your car overheats, it can damage your engine and compound repair costs. In a worst case scenario, your engine can seize up and require extensive repairs. That’s why if you see your car overheating, it’s important to pull over immediately and turn off your car to prevent damage to your engine. Then, have your car towed to T3 Atlanta for fast and friendly repairs. We’ll find the cause of your engine woes and get you back on the road in no time.

We recently talked about the top reasons your car fails its emissions test. Since there are a lot of potential reasons that this outcome can happen, here are five more reasons your car can fail an emissions test.

1. The air filter is dirty

Your car’s air filter works to prevent dirt, dust, and other debris from entering your engine. This clean air helps your engine perform normally and run efficiently.

How does a dirty air filter impact your emissions test? Since your air filter impacts how your car ‘breathes’, dirt and clogs can change your engine’s normal combustion. In other words, it may throw off test results even if there is nothing wrong with the rest of your engine.

On average, it’s recommended to change the filter every 12,000 – 15,000 miles. If you live in an area that’s dry and dusty, or if you have a hobby like offroading, you may need to change your air filter more frequently.

2. Your spark plugs are worn out or faulty

Your car’s spark plugs provide the literal ‘spark’ needed to ignite the air-fuel mixture inside your engine’s cylinder. As they’re used, they gradually wear out over time, becoming less efficient and causing incomplete combustion. This incomplete combustion, in turn, causes increased emissions that will show up on an emissions test.

The exact lifespan of a spark plug varies depending on what they’re made of. Copper-tipped spark plugs typically last up to 20,000 miles and platinum or iridium-tipped plugs sometimes last the life of the vehicle.

3. There’s a problem in the ignition system

Reasons your car can fail an emissions test also include other issues in the ignition system, such as bad plug wires or worn out or faulty ignition coils. Like spark plugs (another part of the ignition system), these issues can cause engine misfires and increased emissions that lead to that unwanted test score.

4. There’s a malfunction in the secondary air injection system

Your secondary air injection system is a system of several components that work together to reduce vehicle emissions. If one part of this system malfunctions or breaks, that can cause an increase in the pollutants in your car’s emissions. The end result? You guessed it – a failed emissions test.

5. There’s a leak in the vacuum hose

Your car’s vacuum hose is one part of the Evaporative Emission Control System (EECS). This system is designed to prevent gas vapors from escaping into the atmosphere. A leak in your vacuum hose – or a worn out gasket connecting the hose to the rest of the system – can throw off the system’s normal operation and lead to a failed emissions test.

Pass Your Emissions Test With Ease With T3 Atlanta

If your emissions test is coming up and you want to make sure that you pass on the first try, bring your car to T3 Atlanta. We can help make sure that your car is in top condition, helping you avoid troublesome error codes or unpleasant surprises on test day. Give us a call at one of our two convenient metro Atlanta locations in Smyrna and Decatur, and we’ll pen you in for an appointment!